Stuff we learned from the guidebook on the way over:
The Ilhas dos Papuas ‘Island of the Fuzzy-Haired’ was named in the 16th century by Portuguese explorers. Later, a Spanish navigator felt it looked like Guinea in West Africa so called it ‘New Guinea’ and the names were eventually combined at Independence. (Could have been worse I suppose, – Island of the Penis Gourds or Bare Bums!)
PNG has a bad reputation and about 2 pages of travel warnings on most government websites. However, the crimes committed by ‘Raskols’ (the criminal youth) living in the slums of Port Moresby, Lae and Mount Hagen areas have tarnished the whole country unfairly and it’s pretty safe everywhere else.
Our flight connections to New Ireland Province meant an overnight stay in Port Moresby and our PNG bosses, Dietmar & Ange had arranged a hotel for us near the airport. There is a large ex-pat community in Port Moresby due to the foreign embassies, mining, oil & gas companies operating from there, so several hotels & bars cater to them.
Our hotel was very busy with serious hikers about to embark on the Kokoda Track – a 96km slippery footpath through some of the roughest terrain in the world. The 1942 Kokoda campaign, in which Australian forces halted the Japanese attack on Port Moresby and pushed them back up the Track, has become synonymous with the Aussie spirit of ‘mateship’ and determination. Over 1000 trekkers each year make this exhausting pilgrimage and the trip takes 6 to 12 days depending on fitness level (mad as hatters…all of them).
In the morning back at the airport, we were greeted by a) A large sign regarding the check-in of weapons and ammunition, and b) The overpowering aroma of bodies. People were everywhere, sitting on the floor or carrying enormous bilums (string bags) stuffed with all their possessions and/or babies. Almost all PNG people are Melanesian so many of the children have blonde curly hair and are stunningly photogenic. You could fill a whole issue of ‘National Geographic’ just with the people in the airport!
The Air Nuigini flight was late…. again…but at least they don’t fly when there is a mechanical problem – Airlink were grounded because of too many safety issues. We eventually made it to Kavieng, which will be our nearest town for supplies. It reminds us a bit of Belize City but much smaller and much friendlier. And if you are shopping for betel nut, Ramen noodles, or tinned fish – you’ll never be disappointed!
At the dock, we met Rapan, our boat skipper (and the company engineer) who took us to our new temporary home on Lissenung Island.
The Ilhas dos Papuas ‘Island of the Fuzzy-Haired’ was named in the 16th century by Portuguese explorers. Later, a Spanish navigator felt it looked like Guinea in West Africa so called it ‘New Guinea’ and the names were eventually combined at Independence. (Could have been worse I suppose, – Island of the Penis Gourds or Bare Bums!)
PNG has a bad reputation and about 2 pages of travel warnings on most government websites. However, the crimes committed by ‘Raskols’ (the criminal youth) living in the slums of Port Moresby, Lae and Mount Hagen areas have tarnished the whole country unfairly and it’s pretty safe everywhere else.
Our flight connections to New Ireland Province meant an overnight stay in Port Moresby and our PNG bosses, Dietmar & Ange had arranged a hotel for us near the airport. There is a large ex-pat community in Port Moresby due to the foreign embassies, mining, oil & gas companies operating from there, so several hotels & bars cater to them.Our hotel was very busy with serious hikers about to embark on the Kokoda Track – a 96km slippery footpath through some of the roughest terrain in the world. The 1942 Kokoda campaign, in which Australian forces halted the Japanese attack on Port Moresby and pushed them back up the Track, has become synonymous with the Aussie spirit of ‘mateship’ and determination. Over 1000 trekkers each year make this exhausting pilgrimage and the trip takes 6 to 12 days depending on fitness level (mad as hatters…all of them).
In the morning back at the airport, we were greeted by a) A large sign regarding the check-in of weapons and ammunition, and b) The overpowering aroma of bodies. People were everywhere, sitting on the floor or carrying enormous bilums (string bags) stuffed with all their possessions and/or babies. Almost all PNG people are Melanesian so many of the children have blonde curly hair and are stunningly photogenic. You could fill a whole issue of ‘National Geographic’ just with the people in the airport!
The Air Nuigini flight was late…. again…but at least they don’t fly when there is a mechanical problem – Airlink were grounded because of too many safety issues. We eventually made it to Kavieng, which will be our nearest town for supplies. It reminds us a bit of Belize City but much smaller and much friendlier. And if you are shopping for betel nut, Ramen noodles, or tinned fish – you’ll never be disappointed!At the dock, we met Rapan, our boat skipper (and the company engineer) who took us to our new temporary home on Lissenung Island.
